Isle of Lismore

Lismore has a long and interesting history. It was the ecclesiastical capital of Argyll for several centuries and the Cathedral of St Moluag was founded here in the 12th century, just north of Clachan. All that remains is the choir, which is now used as the parish church. The cathedral occupies the site of a church founded by the Irish saint, who established a religious community on the island about the same time as St Columba was busy at work in Iona. Legend has it that the two saints were racing to the island, in an attempt to be the first to land and found a monastery. Such was Moluag's religious zeal that he cut off his finger and threw it on to the shore, thus claiming possession. This sort of behaviour is, of course, frowned upon in Olympic rowing events.

Not far from the church, is the 2,000-year-old Broch of Tirefour, one of the best-preserved prehistoric monuments in Argyll, with surviving circular walls up to 16-ft high. Other interesting sights include Castle Coeffin, a 13th-century fortress built by the MacDougalls of Lorn, on the west coast, and in the southwest of the island the 13th-century Achadun Castle, built for the Bishops of Argyll. It's a short walk from here to Bernera Island, which can be reached at low tide (but don't get stranded).