Around the Island of Jura

Introduction to The Paps

Jura is one of the last, great wildernesses in the British Isles and perfect for some real off-the-beaten-track walking. Its main attractions are the beautiful Paps of Jura, three breast-shaped peaks that dominate not only the island itself but also the view for miles around. From Kintyre, Mull, Coll and Tiree, and from the mountains of mainland Scotland from Skye to Arran, they can be seen on the horizon. The Paps provide some tough hill-walking and require good navigational skills, or a guide. It takes a good eight hours to cover all three peaks, though during the Paps of Jura fell race they are covered in just three hours. A good place to start is by the three-arch bridge over the Corran river, north of Leargybreack. The first pap you reach is Beinn a'Chaolais (2,408 ft), next is the highest, Beinn an Oír (2,571 ft) and the third is Beinn Shiantaidh(2,476 ft). To find out about guides, ask at the hotel in Craighouse (see below). The island's west coast is completely uninhabited and inaccessible to all but the hardiest and most dedicated of walkers.

Corryvreckan Whirlpool & the north of Jura

One of the island's main draws is the Corryvreckan whirlpool at the very northern tip, between Jura and the uninhabited island of Scarba. The notorious whirlpool, the most dangerous tide race in Scotland, is best appreciated one hour after low tide, and its awesome roar can be heard long before you reach it. It is named after a Viking, Bhreacan, who anchored his boat here for three days and nights by a rope woven from the hair of virgins. Unsurprisingly, the rope parted under the strain, casting doubt on the status of one of the contributors, and Bhreacan drowned. To get there, follow the rough track from Ardlussa toKinuachdrach, or get someone to drive you, then it's a two-mile walk. Before setting out, ask at the hotel for information and directions.

Also in the north of the island is Barnhill, the completely isolated and forlorn-looking cottage where George Orwell wrote 1984 between 1946 and 1948 (hence the book's title). Though the house attracts literary pilgrims, it remains closed, although it can be rented from £400 per week from April to December; Tel. 01786-850274.

Craighouse

The only village on Jura is Craighouse, eight miles from Feolin Ferry on the southeast coast. Here you'll find the Jura distillery, which welcomes visitors. Tours are by appointment, Tel. 820240. Beside the distillery is the island's one and only hotel, the Jura Hotel, Tel. 820243, Fax. 820249, overlooking the lovely small isles bay. They'll provide information on island walks, and the pub is the social hub. There's cheaper accommodation with Mrs Boardman, Tel. 820379, open April-September; or Zoe Newton, Ivy Cottage, Tel. 820322 (dinner available for £12). Three miles south of the village, at Ardfin, is Jura House, with its beautiful walled garden, filled with wild flowers and Australasian plants and trees. Info - Daily during daylight hours.